Monday, October 7, 2013
Rear Fog Lamp For Vintage Cars
According to current legislation in many countries, vintage cars must also be fitted with a fog lamp at the rear. In modern cars, there is a bit of circuitry associated with the fog lamp switch to prevent the fog lamp from going on when the lights are switched on if the driver forgot to switch it off after the last patch of fog cleared up. The circuit described here extends that technology back in time. The circuit is built around a dual JK flip-flop (type 4027). T3 acts as an emitter follower, and it only supplies power to the circuit when the lights are switched on.
For safety reasons, the supply voltage is tapped off from the number plate lamp (L2), because it is on even if you accidentally drive with only the parking lights on. The wire that leads to the number plate lamp usually originates at the fuse box. As the states of the outputs of IC1a and IC1b are arbitrary when power is switched on, the reset inputs are briefly set high by the combination of C1, R1 and T1 when the lights are switched on (ignition switch on). That causes both Q outputs (pins 1 and 15) to go low. IC1a and IC1b are wired in toggle mode (J and K high).
The Set inputs are tied to ground (inactive). The driver uses pushbutton switch S1 to generate a clock pulse that causes the outputs of the flip-flops to toggle. The debouncing circuit formed by C2, R4 and T2 is essential for obtaining a clean clock pulse, and thus for reliable operation of the circuit. C1 and C2 should preferably be tantalum capacitors. The Q output of IC1b directly drives LED D1 (a low-current type, and yellow according to the regulations). The Q output of IC1a energises relay Re1 via T4 and thus applies power to the rear fog lamp L1.
Circuit diagram:
Rear Fog Lamp Circuit Diagram For Vintage Cars
Free-wheeling diode D2 protects T4 against inductive voltage spikes that occur when the relay is de-energised. In older-model cars, the charging voltage of the generator or alternator is governed by a mechanical voltage regulator. These regulators are less reliable than the electronic versions used in modern cars. For that reason, a Zener diode voltage-limiter circuit (D3 and R9) is included to keep the voltage at the emitter of T3 below 15 V and thus prevent the 4027 from being destroyed by an excessively high voltage.
The supply voltage for the circuit is tapped off from the fuse box. An accessory terminal is usually present there. Check to make sure it is fed from the ignition switch. The pushbutton switch must be a momentary-contact type (not a latching type). Ensure that the pushbutton and LED have a good ground connection. Fit the LED close to the button.
The following ‘Bosch codes’ are used in the schematic:
- 15 = +12 V from ignition switch
- 58K = number plate lamp
- 86 = relay coil power (+) IN
- 85 = relay coil power OUT
- 30 = relay contact (+) IN
- 87 = relay contact OUT
Author: Eric Vanderseypen - Copyright: Elektor Electronics Magazine
Thursday, October 3, 2013
Mains Powered White LED Lamp

The bridge rectifier turns the AC voltage into a DC voltage. LEDs can only operate from a DC voltage. They will even fail when the negative voltage is greater then 5 V. The electrolytic capacitor has a double function: it ensures that there is sufficient voltage to light the LEDs when the mains voltage is less than the forward voltage of the LEDs and it takes care of the inrush current peak that occurs when the mains is switched on. This current pulse could otherwise damage the LEDs. Then there is the 560-ohm resistor, it ensures that the current through the LED is more constant and therefore the light output is more uniform.

There is a voltage drop of 6.7 V across the 560-Ω resistor, that is, 12 mA flows through the LEDs. This is a safe value. The total voltage drop across the LEDs is therefore 15 LEDs times 3 V or about 45 V. The voltage across the electrolytic capacitor is a little more than 52V. To understand how C1 functions, we can calculate the impedance (that is, resistance to AC voltage) as follows: 1/(2π·f·C), or: 1/ (2·3.14·50·220·10-9)= 14k4. When we multiply this with 12 mA, we get a voltage drop across the capacitor of 173 V. This works quite well, since the 173-V capacitor voltage plus the 52-V LED voltage equals 225 V. Close enough to the mains voltage, which is officially 230 V.
Tuesday, April 9, 2013
Night Lamp
This simple night lamp required very low current as 350mA. So you can operate this lamp using one normal 1.5V battery. But we recommend using alkaline batteries as you can operate long time without any headache.
When you buy a IC for this circuit make sure it is Cmos type. To get best results do not use an ordinary LED cheap bulb, use a good one. You can build this lamp without the photo resister but it will be then affect to the duration of the battery you can use, there for use photo resister to double the running time as mention in the diagram.
When daylight comes the photo resister will automatically disconnect the circuit and with the darkness it will be switched on again.
