Thursday, October 10, 2013

Fastest Finger First Indicator

Quiz-type game shows are increasingly becoming popular on television these days. In such games, fastest finger first indicators (FFFIs) are used to test the player’s reaction time. The player’s designated number is displayed with an audio alarm when the player presses his entry button. The circuit presented here determines as to which of the four contestants first pressed the button and locks out the remaining three entries. Simultaneously, an audio alarm and the correct decimal number display of the corresponding contestant are activated. When a contestant presses his switch, the corresponding output of latch IC2 (7475) changes its logic state from 1 to 0. The combinational circuitry comprising dual 4-input NAND gates of IC3 (7420) locks out subsequent entries by producing the appropriate latch-disable signal. Priority encoder IC4 (74147) encodes the active-low input condition into the corresponding binary coded decimal (BCD) number output.

Fastest Finger First Indicator Circuit DiagramThe outputs of IC4 after inversion by inverter gates inside hex inverter 74LS04 (IC5) are coupled to BCD-to-7-segment decoder/display driver IC6 (7447). The output of IC6 drives common-anode 7-segment LED display (DIS.1, FND507 or LT542). The audio alarm generator comprises clock oscillator IC7 (555), whose output drives a loudspeaker. The oscillator frequency can be varied with the help of preset VR1. Logic 0 state at one of the outputs of IC2 produces logic 1 input condition at pin 4 of IC7, thereby enabling the audio oscillator. IC7 needs +12V DC supply for sufficient alarm level. The remaining circuit operates on regulated +5V DC supply, which is obtained using IC1 (7805). Once the organiser identifies the contestant who pressed the switch first, he disables the audio alarm and at the same time forces the digital display to ‘0’ by pressing reset pushbutton S5. With a slight modification, this circuit can accommodate more than four contestants.
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Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Lights On!

This circuit ensures that you will never again forget to switch on the lights of your car. As soon as the engine is running, the dipped beams and the sidelights are automatically switched on. The circuit also causes the dipped beams to be extinguished as soon as the main beams are switched on. As you can see from the schematic diagram, no special components are needed. When the engine is running, the alternator will generate a voltage of more than 14 V. Diode D1 reduces this voltage by 5.6 V and passes it to the base of T1 via R1. Due to the resulting current, T1 conducts. The amplified current flows via R3, the base of T3 and D3 to ground. This causes T3 to also conduct and energize relay Re1.

Circuit diagram :

Lights_On_Circuit_DiagramLights On Circuit Diagram

If the driver now switches on the main beams, a current flows through D2 and R2 into the base of T2, causing this transistor to conduct. As a result, the voltage on the base of T3 drops, causing T3 to cut off and the relay to drop out. When the main beams are switched off, the previous situation is restored, and the relay again engages. The dipped beams and the sidelights are switched by the contacts of relay Re1. Diodes D5 and D6 ensure that the sidelights are illuminated if either the dimmed beams or the main beams are switched on. In practice, this means that the sidelights will be on whenever the engine is running, regardless of whether the main beams are switched on.

Source : www.extremecircuits.net

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Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Reset Sequencer

It is often necessary in complex designs to provide a sequence of reset pulses to different parts of a circuit to ensure the whole design functions reliably. The DS1830 from Maxim (www.maxim-ic.com) provides three sequenced open-drain reset outputs. This chip is designed for 5 V systems but a 3.3 V version (DS1830A) is also available. Both are offered in a range of package outlines including DIP, SO and µSOP. Two inputs give the chip some degree of programmability of its characteristics: The TOL input defines the chips tolerance to power supply fluctuations before a reset sequence is triggered.


Jumper JP1 allows the TOL to be connected to Ub (Vcc), ground or left open circuit and will result in the following three reset thresholds: The TD input allows the length of the reset signal to be programmed and jumper JP2 gives the following three possibilities: The PBRST (pushbutton reset) allows a manual reset button to be connected to the chip. This input has a built-in 40 k? pull up resistor and can also be driven by a digital output or used to cascade additional devices to provide more sequenced reset signals.
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Monday, October 7, 2013

Rear Fog Lamp For Vintage Cars

According to current legislation in many countries, vintage cars must also be fitted with a fog lamp at the rear. In modern cars, there is a bit of circuitry associated with the fog lamp switch to prevent the fog lamp from going on when the lights are switched on if the driver forgot to switch it off after the last patch of fog cleared up. The circuit described here extends that technology back in time. The circuit is built around a dual JK flip-flop (type 4027). T3 acts as an emitter follower, and it only supplies power to the circuit when the lights are switched on.

For safety reasons, the supply voltage is tapped off from the number plate lamp (L2), because it is on even if you accidentally drive with only the parking lights on. The wire that leads to the number plate lamp usually originates at the fuse box. As the states of the outputs of IC1a and IC1b are arbitrary when power is switched on, the reset inputs are briefly set high by the combination of C1, R1 and T1 when the lights are switched on (ignition switch on). That causes both Q outputs (pins 1 and 15) to go low. IC1a and IC1b are wired in toggle mode (J and K high).

The Set inputs are tied to ground (inactive). The driver uses pushbutton switch S1 to generate a clock pulse that causes the outputs of the flip-flops to toggle. The debouncing circuit formed by C2, R4 and T2 is essential for obtaining a clean clock pulse, and thus for reliable operation of the circuit. C1 and C2 should preferably be tantalum capacitors. The Q output of IC1b directly drives LED D1 (a low-current type, and yellow according to the regulations). The Q output of IC1a energises relay Re1 via T4 and thus applies power to the rear fog lamp L1.

Circuit diagram:

rear-fog-lamp-for-vintage-cars-circuit-diagram

Rear Fog Lamp Circuit Diagram For Vintage Cars

Free-wheeling diode D2 protects T4 against inductive voltage spikes that occur when the relay is de-energised. In older-model cars, the charging voltage of the generator or alternator is governed by a mechanical voltage regulator. These regulators are less reliable than the electronic versions used in modern cars. For that reason, a Zener diode voltage-limiter circuit (D3 and R9) is included to keep the voltage at the emitter of T3 below 15 V and thus prevent the 4027 from being destroyed by an excessively high voltage.

The supply voltage for the circuit is tapped off from the fuse box. An accessory terminal is usually present there. Check to make sure it is fed from the ignition switch. The pushbutton switch must be a momentary-contact type (not a latching type). Ensure that the pushbutton and LED have a good ground connection. Fit the LED close to the button.

The following ‘Bosch codes’ are used in the schematic:

  • 15 = +12 V from ignition switch
  • 58K = number plate lamp
  • 86 = relay coil power (+) IN
  • 85 = relay coil power OUT
  • 30 = relay contact (+) IN
  • 87 = relay contact OUT

Author: Eric Vanderseypen - Copyright: Elektor Electronics Magazine

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Sunday, October 6, 2013

Speed Limit Alert

Wireless portable unit, Adaptable with most internal combustion engine vehicles

This circuit has been designed to alert the vehicle driver that he/she has reached the maximum fixed speed limit (i.e. in a motorway). It eliminates the necessity of looking at the tachometer and to be distracted from driving. There is a strict relation between engines RPM and vehicle speed, so this device controls RPM, starting to beep and flashing a LED once per second, when maximum fixed speed is reached. Its outstanding feature lies in the fact that no connection is required from circuit to engine.

Circuit operation:

IC1 forms a differential amplifier for the electromagnetic pulses generated by the engine sparking-plugs, picked-up by sensor coil L1. IC2A further amplifies the pulses and IC2B to IC2F inverters provide clean pulse squaring. The monostable multivibrator IC3A is used as a frequency discriminator, its pin 6 going firmly high when speed limit (settled by R11) is reached. IC3B, the transistors and associate components provide timings for the signaling part, formed by LED D5 and piezo sounder BZ1. D3 introduces a small amount of hysteresis.

Circuit diagram:

Speed-limit Alert Circuit Diagram

Speed-limit Alert Circuit Diagram

Parts:

R1,R2,R19_______1K 1/4W Resistors
R3-R6,R13,R17_100K 1/4W Resistors
R7,R15__________1M 1/4W Resistors
R8_____________50K 1/2W Trimmer Cermet
R9____________470R 1/4W Resistor
R10___________470K 1/4W Resistor
R11___________100K 1/2W Trimmer Cermet (see notes)
R12___________220K 1/4W Resistor (see notes)
R14,R16________68K 1/4W Resistors
R18____________22K 1/4W Resistor
R20___________150R 1/4W Resistor (see notes)
C1,C7_________100µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C2,C3_________330nF 63V Polyester Capacitors
C4-C6___________4µ7 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
D1,D5______Red LEDs 3 or 5mm.
D2,D3________1N4148 75V 150mA Diodes
D4________BZX79C7V5 7.5V 500mW Zener Diode
IC1__________CA3140 or TL061 Op-amp IC
IC2____________4069 Hex Inverter IC
IC3____________4098 or 4528 Dual Monostable Multivibrator IC
Q1,Q2_________BC238 25V 100mA NPN Transistors
L1_____________10mH miniature Inductor (see notes)
BZ1___________Piezo sounder (incorporating 3KHz oscillator)
SW1____________SPST Slider Switch
B1_______________9V PP3 Battery (see notes) Clip for PP3 Battery

Notes:

  • D1 is necessary at set-up to monitor the sparking-plugs emission, thus allowing to find easily the best placement for the device on the dashboard or close to it. After the setting is done, D1 & R9 can be omitted or switched-off, with battery savings.
  • During the preceding operation R8 must be adjusted for better results. The best setting of this trimmer is usually obtained when its value lies between 10 and 20K.
  • You must do this first setting when the engine is on but the vehicle is stationary.
  • The final simplest setting can be made with the help of a second person. Drive the vehicle and reach the speed needed. The helper must adjust the trimmer R11 until the device operates the beeper and D5. Reducing vehicles speed the beep must stop.
  • L1 can be a 10mH small inductor usually sold in the form of a tiny rectangular plastic box. If you need an higher sensitivity you can build a special coil, winding 130 to 150 turns of 0.2 mm. enameled wire on a 5 cm. diameter former (e.g. a can). Extract the coil from the former and tape it with insulating tape making thus a stand-alone coil.
  • Current drawing is about 10mA. If you intend to use the car 12V battery, you can connect the device to the lighter socket. In this case R20 must be 330R.
  • Depending on the engines cylinders number, R11 can be unable to set the device properly. In some cases you must use R11=200K and R12=100K or less.
  • If you need to set-up the device on the bench, a sine or square wave variable generator is required.
  • To calculate the frequency relation to RPM in a four strokes engine you can use the following formula: Hz= (Number of cylinders * RPM) / 120.
  • For a two strokes engine the formula is: Hz= (Number of cylinders * RPM) / 60.
  • Thus, for a car with a four strokes engine and four cylinders the resulting frequency @ 3000 RPM is 100Hz.
  • Temporarily disconnect C2 from IC1 pin 6. Connect the generator output across C2 and Ground. Set the generator frequency to e.g. 100Hz and trim R11 until you will hear the beeps and LED D5 will start flashing. Reducing the frequency to 99 or 98 Hz, beeping and flashing must stop.
  • Please note that this circuit is not suited to Diesel engines.

Source : www.redcircuits.com

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Saturday, October 5, 2013

Serial To Parallel Converter

This converter may help if just the serial port on a personal computer is free, whereas the printer needs a parallel (Centronics) port. It converts a serial 2400 baud signal into a parallel signal. The TxD line, pin 3, CTS line, pin 8 and the DSR line, pin 6, of the serial port are used - see diagram. The CTS and DSR signals enable handshaking to be implemented. Since the computer needs real RS232 levels, an adaptation from TTL to RS232 is provided in the converter by a MAX232. This is an integrated level converter that transforms the single +5V supply into a symmetrical ±12V on.

Serial-to-Parallel Converter Circuit Diagramw

The serial-to-parallel conversion is effected by IC1. This is essentially a programmed PIC controller that produces a Centronics compatible signal from a 2400 baud serial signal (eight data bits, no parity, one stop bit). The IC also generates the requisite control signals. If there is a delay on the Centronics port, the RS232 bitstream from the computer may be stopped via the Flow signal (pin 17). This ensures that no data is lost. The controller needs a 4 MHz ceramic resonator, X1.

Source : www.extremecircuits.net

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Friday, October 4, 2013

A Discharger for Receiver Battery Packs

You may have read about cycling NiCad batteries. If not, read a little here ( Reds R/C Battery Clinic) for an excellent overview. Overcharging apparently leads to voltage depression, which can be corrected by one or two complete discharges (to 1 to 1.1 volts per cell). On the other hand, over discharging the batteries to a low or zero voltage can damage them, and if the batteries have not been overcharged and have no voltage depression, cycling just uses up regular battery life. I designed and use this discharger occasionally to remove voltage depression and insure battery capacity is still ok for those planes that have no low voltage alarm.

Note that the 100 ohm resistors are 1/2 watt (these are the load resistors), the rest are 1/4 watt. The red LED lights while discharging, buzzer sounds and discharge rate drops to 15-25mA (for the buzzer) when complete. The discharge load is 60mA to 110mA depending on the battery voltage. Since thats about the same current draw as my Hitec receiver and two HS-80s draw while flying handlaunch, I can use discharge time almost directly to indicate flying time. The buzzer uses enough current to keep a 150mA battery down, but when discharging a 600mA battery, the battery recovers quickly when the load is removed--the buzzer/discharger cycles on and off. Threshold voltage of the discharger is set to 4.2 volts. Since the discharger still draws some current when buzzing, try to disconnect the discharger once the alarm sounds--dont leave it going for hours lest the battery be over discharged.

Discharger for Receiver Battery Packs circuit

There are a couple ways you could modify the circuit to work with a 5-cell 6-volt receiver battery pack. The two 1k resistors are a divider network, so one way would be to change the resistors to change the sampling voltage at the comparator. The formula for a divider network is Vout=Vin(R2/(R1+R2)) or R1=R2*((Vin/Vout)-1). Here, R1 is the resistor connected to the positive lead and pin 7 of the comparator, Vin is 5.25 volts (1.05 volts per cell discharge shutoff threshold), and Vout is the reference 2.1 volts (the voltage produced by the LM317T and the 180 and 270 ohm resistors). You can use R2 as the same 1k value that was there before. So R1=1000*((5.25/2.1)-1)=1500=1.5k. So swap the top 1k resistor in the schematic for a 1.5k, and the new shutoff voltage for your device will be 5.25 volts.

To increase the discharge rate, decrease the resistance of the load resistors. You could use four 100 ohm resistors in parallel instead of two, for example, and it would discharge twice as fast. Resistance of a number of resistors in parallel is the value of the resistor devided by the number of the resistors. Here, 100 ohms/ four resistors is 25 ohms. At five volts, current is (5 volts)/(25 ohms)=0.2 ampere or 200mA. Be careful not to decrease resistance too much however--the small signal transistor used in this particular circuit is probably only rated for maximum 500 mA.

Circuit diagram :

Discharger for Receiver Battery Packs circuit 1 Discharger for Receiver Battery Packs1

Parts:
273-074 Miniature Piezo Buzzer, 12v, PC board mount
271-312 1/4 watt 5% carbon film resistors, 500 pieces (Just do it!)
276-1778 LM317T adjustable voltage regulator
276-1712 Quad comparator LM339
276-1622 LED assortment (20 count)
276-2009 NPN Silicon transistor MPS2222A (2N2222)

Custom electronics:
I post this design not because I think this is a brilliant piece of circuit design but because the design works, and it can give you a start on your own experimentation. The idea is to use the power available from the discharging battery to monitor the voltage of the battery, shut off discharging at a preset voltage (here 1.05 volts/cell), and sound an alarm when discharging is complete. To do so means a voltage reference powered by the changing voltage of the battery, here the LM317T and the 180 with 270 ohm resistors. You could just as easily use a LM336 (see the low voltage warning buzzer page) or a zener with resistor, or something else as a reference. Since the reference voltage must be below the ambient battery voltage, a pair of 1k resistors provides the divided test voltage. The LM339 is a four way comparator.
This design uses really three comparators: in addition to the one driving the transistor, a comparator drives the LED and another drives the buzzer. But you could use a single comparator (like the LM311) with the buzzer across the emitter and collector of the transistor, and the LED in series with a 270 ohm resistor across (parallel with) the 100 ohm load resistors. With the transistor conducting, the voltage drop across base and emitter is low, and the buzzer is quiet. The tiny current in a piezo buzzer (7 mA), when the transistor is not conducting, would be divided between the load resistors and the LED, and the LED is dark.
A word about the comparator. The output of the comparator serves as a meager source of current, but can sink current nicely. In other words, the high logic output of the comparator will not drive the base of a NPN transistor as here. The 560 ohm resistor provides the current here for the transistor base--the comparator takes it away when its output drops to ground. Hmmm . . . . so, maybe use a PNP transistor like a 2N3906 instead with emitter to + and collector to load, remove the 560 resistor and connect the base through a 1k resistor to the output of the comparator, then reverse the logic of the comparator by swapping the reference with the test. . . hmmmmm. Could work. Yep . . . works.

Source : electronic

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Thursday, October 3, 2013

Mains Powered White LED Lamp

Did it ever occur to you that an array of white LEDs can be used as a small lamp for the living room? If not, read on. LED lamps are available ready-made, look exactly the same as standard halogen lamps and can be fitted in a standard 230-V light fitting. We opened one, and as expected, a capacitor has been used to drop the voltage from 230 V to the voltage suitable for the LEDs. This method is cheaper and smaller compared to using a transformer. The lamp uses only 1 watt and therefore also gives off less light than, say, a 20 W halogen lamp. The light is also somewhat bluer. The circuit operates in the following manner: C1 behaves as a voltage dropping ‘resistor’ and ensures that the current is not too high (about 12 mA).

Mains Operated White LED Lamp Circuit
The bridge rectifier turns the AC voltage into a DC voltage. LEDs can only operate from a DC voltage. They will even fail when the negative voltage is greater then 5 V. The electrolytic capacitor has a double function: it ensures that there is sufficient voltage to light the LEDs when the mains voltage is less than the forward voltage of the LEDs and it takes care of the inrush current peak that occurs when the mains is switched on. This current pulse could otherwise damage the LEDs. Then there is the 560-ohm resistor, it ensures that the current through the LED is more constant and therefore the light output is more uniform.

White LED Lamp Circuit Diagram
There is a voltage drop of 6.7 V across the 560-Ω resistor, that is, 12 mA flows through the LEDs. This is a safe value. The total voltage drop across the LEDs is therefore 15 LEDs times 3 V or about 45 V. The voltage across the electrolytic capacitor is a little more than 52V. To understand how C1 functions, we can calculate the impedance (that is, resistance to AC voltage) as follows: 1/(2π·f·C), or: 1/ (2·3.14·50·220·10-9)= 14k4. When we multiply this with 12 mA, we get a voltage drop across the capacitor of 173 V. This works quite well, since the 173-V capacitor voltage plus the 52-V LED voltage equals 225 V. Close enough to the mains voltage, which is officially 230 V.

Mains Powered White LED Lamp Circuit DiagramMoreover, the latter calculation is not very accurate because the mains voltage is in practice not quite sinusoidal. Furthermore, the mains voltage from which 50-V DC has been removed is far from sinusoidal. Finally, if you need lots of white LEDs then it is worth considering buying one of these lamps and smashing the bulb with a hammer (with a cloth or bag around the bulb to prevent flying glass!) and salvaging the LEDs from it. This can be much cheaper than buying individual LEDs…
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Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Doorbell Cascade

Sometimes you have to do it the hard way, even if doing it the easy way is an option. That is the case here. The intention is to add a second doorbell in parallel with the existing bell. This does not, in principle, require any electronic components. You would simply connect the second bell to the first one. But if the existing bell transformer is not rated for the additional load then this is not a good idea! An option is to buy a new and larger transformer. But bigger also means more expensive! Moreover, replacing the existing transformer can be an awkward job, for example when it is built into the meter box. So we follow different approach.

Doorbell Cascade circuit schematic

This circuit is connected in parallel with the existing bell. This is possible because the current consumption is very small compared to the load of the bell. The bridge rectifier rectifies the bell voltage when the push-button is pressed. This will then close the relay contacts. These contacts are the ‘electronic’ button for the second bell,which is powered from its own cheap bell transformer.
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Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Cheap 12V to 220V Inverter

Even though today’s electrical appliances are increasingly often self-powered, especially the portable ones you carry around when camping or holidaying in summer, you do still sometimes need a source of 230 V AC - and while we’re about it, why not at a frequency close to that of the mains? As long as the power required from such a source remains relatively low - here we’ve chosen 30 VA - it’s very easy to build an inverter with simple, cheap components that many electronics hobbyists may even already have.
Though it is possible to build a more powerful circuit, the complexity caused by the very heavy currents to be handled on the low-voltage side leads to circuits that would be out of place in this summer issue. Let’s not forget, for example, that just to get a meager 1 amp at 230 VAC, the battery primary side would have to handle more than 20 ADC!. The circuit diagram of our project is easy to follow. A classic 555 timer chip, identified as IC1, is configured as an astable multivibrator at a frequency close to 100 Hz, which can be adjusted accurately by means of potentiometer P1.
12-volt-to-230-volt-invertor-circuit-diagram
As the mark/space ratio (duty factor) of the 555 output is a long way from being 1:1 (50%), it is used to drive a D-type flip-flop produced using a CMOS type 4013 IC. This produces perfect complementary square-wave signals (i.e. in antiphase) on its Q and Q outputs suitable for driving the output power transistors. As the output current available from the CMOS 4013 is very small, Darlington power transistors are used to arrive at the necessary output current. We have chosen MJ3001s from the now defunct Motorola (only as a semi-conductor manufacturer, of course!) which are cheap and readily available, but any equivalent power Darlington could be used.
These drive a 230 V to 2 × 9 V center-tapped transformer used ‘backwards’ to produce the 230 V output. The presence of the 230 VAC voltage is indicated by a neon light, while a VDR (voltage dependent resistor) type S10K250 or S07K250 clips off the spikes and surges that may appear at the transistor switching points. The output signal this circuit produces is approximately a square wave; only approximately, since it is somewhat distorted by passing through the transformer. Fortunately, it is suitable for the majority of electrical devices it is capable of supplying, whether they be light bulbs, small motors, or power supplies for electronic devices.
PCB layout:
pcb-layout-12-volt-to-230-volt-invertor-circuit-diagram
COMPONENTS LIST
Resistors
R1 = 18k?
R2 = 3k3
R3 = 1k
R4,R5 = 1k?5
R6 = VDR S10K250 (or S07K250)
P1 = 100 k potentiometer
Capacitors
C1 = 330nF
C2 = 1000 µF 25V
Semiconductor
T1,T2 = MJ3001
IC1 = 555
IC2 = 4013
Miscellaneous
LA1 = neon light 230 V
F1 = fuse, 5A
TR1 = mains transformer, 2x9V 40VA (see text)
4 solder pins
Note that, even though the circuit is intended and designed for powering by a car battery, i.e. from 12 V, the transformer is specified with a 9 V primary. But at full power you need to allow for a voltage drop of around 3 V between the collector and emitter of the power transistors. This relatively high saturation voltage is in fact a ‘shortcoming’ common to all devices in Darlington configuration, which actually consists of two transistors in one case. We’re suggesting a PCB design to make it easy to construct this project; as the component overlay shows, the PCB only carries the low-power, low-voltage components.
The Darlington transistors should be fitted onto a finned anodized aluminum heat-sink using the standard insulating accessories of mica washers and shouldered washers, as their collectors are connected to the metal cans and would otherwise be short-circuited. An output power of 30 VA implies a current consumption of the order of 3 A from the 12 V battery at the ‘primary side’. So the wires connecting the collectors of the MJ3001s [1] T1 and T2 to the transformer primary, the emitters of T1 and T2 to the battery negative terminal, and the battery positive terminal to the transformer primary will need to have a minimum cross-sectional area of 2 mm2 so as to minimize voltage drop.
The transformer can be any 230 V to 2 × 9 V type, with an E/I iron core or toroidal, rated at around 40 VA. Properly constructed on the board shown here, the circuit should work at once, the only adjustment being to set the output to a frequency of 50 Hz with P1. You should keep in minds that the frequency stability of the 555 is fairly poor by today’s standards, so you shouldn’t rely on it to drive your radio-alarm correctly – but is such a device very useful or indeed desirable to have on holiday anyway? Watch out too for the fact that the output voltage of this inverter is just as dangerous as the mains from your domestic power sockets.
So you need to apply just the same safety rules! Also, the project should be enclosed in a sturdy ABS or diecast so no parts can be touched while in operation. The circuit should not be too difficult to adapt to other mains voltages or frequencies, for example 110 V, 115 V or 127 V, 60 Hz. The AC voltage requires a transformer with a different primary voltage (which here becomes the secondary), and the frequency, some adjusting of P1 and possibly minor changes to the values of timing components R1 and C1 on the 555.
Author : B. Broussas Copyright  Elektor Elecronics 2008
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